After a hectic week of travel in Israel, amazing as it was, it was definitely time to get back on the Slow Travel bus (or train as that was our mode of travel to Assisi from Rome).
We decided to take an Airbnb to have a bit more space, as well as being able to do our washing and relax. Our apartment was just outside of the Porta Nouva. While it was at the bottom of the hill an escalator awaited for the trip up the hill – how civilised.
The very first thing that captured our attention were the views from the town.
Assisi is about the Saints, and coming straight from Israel it had even greater resonance even for a non-Cathlic. like myself.
There were nuns and monks everywehere.
I was struck by how so many people gaze in awe at the religious sites. As someone brought up as a Christian, I have a feeling of reverance in these places but I am not in awe. That said, there is something uplifting in seeing people so at one with their faith – both young and old.
The Basilica Di S Chiara is a church dedicated to St Clare the founder of the Order of St Clare formerly the Orderly of the Poor Ladies or Poor Clare’s. Her remains are buried here and there are also religious icons including Saint Clare’s hair and clothing of both Saint Clare and the all important St Francis. The sock baring the evidence of St Francis’s stigmata saw a bit scary.
The rich pink tones of the church’s stone made a stunning backdrop to the piazza in the evening. We were surprised there was no small bar to sit and enjoy the view. Definitely a missed opportunity.
My favourite church was the Santa Maria Maggiore. It is a little out of the way on the low side of the town. It was originally the main cathedral in Assisi. It is built over Roman house that we visited on a tour of the Roman Forum. The cathedral is significant in the story of St Francis, as it was adjacent at the palace of the Cathedral”s Bishop where St Francis stripped naked and gave back is worldly possessions. Not the most famous of the churches in Assisi but definitely one of the more interesting whether your interest is in the church or the Roman building below.
Then of course there is the towering Basilica dedicated to Saint Francis, who really is the star of the city. His story is quite incredible – a man of true influence.
When arriving in Assisi, the Basilica Di San Fransisco dominates the city. It is an enormous complex. It was also the only place in the city that we saw a significant security presence, something which seems to be an ever present at important sites in Italy these days.
The Basilica di San Francisco is breath taking. The approach is from above looking across a beautiful and in our case freshly mown lawn. The upper basilica is covered with paintings of Christ and Saint Francis. The same can be said for the lower basilica. Before entering the lower basilica we took in the story of Francis‘s meeting with the Sultan of Egypt during the Crusades. It was ever so more poignant having just arrived from Jerusalem. From the lower basilica we entered Saint Francis crypt and gazed at his tomb. More than anywhere in Asssi, it is here that I was taken by the significance of religion. People, young and old in reverent prayer.
in a city dominated by churches there was The Temple fo Minerva, currently housing a church. Its history dates back into the first century BC. We have an association with Minerva from our time in Sicily, so as I investigated further I found that it was mere supposition about Minerva. It’s naming comes from the discovery of a female statue on the site.
There is more to Assisi than the churches. There are the stunning views across the Umbrian Valley below and hills Behind. There is an impressive citadel that looks over the city – it has an impressive history and connection with Sicily. There is great food (a shout out to the delightful Nonna Nini restaurant) and wine.
It is well suited to Slow Travel – a medieval town, steeped in religious history and a place of beauty. It can all be seen in a day I am sure, but taking it slowly allows the signifiance and beauty of Assisi to be absorbed.