Tag Archives: Ortigia

Diary of a Slow Traveller – The Food, Siracusa, Sicily

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Sitting at our favourite local coffee shop on a lovely Adelaide Autumn day, my favourite person and I quickly returned to our usual conversation – Sicily and when we can get back there.

There are so many things to talk about when it comes to Sicily but it’s the food that becomes the centre piece of pretty much all of our coffee conversations. Is it the freshness, the fish caught that morning, the local vegetables (seasonal produce only) or  the sweet temptations?

Oranges and Grapes a t the market

Oranges and Grapes a t the market

I guess it depends on what takes your fancy and across our nearly 2 months in Siracusa it all took its turn in delighting us. Staying so close to the Ortigia food market all food thoughts started at this truly special local market, just over the bridge on the island of Ortigia and next to the ancient Temple of Apollo. The choices grapes, pears, carrots, brocolli romanescue, bread, meats, fish and cheeses.

Fresh fish - Ortigia Market

Fresh fish – Ortigia Market

Even on days when we didn’t plan to cook in our apartment,  we still seemed to find things to buy at this delightful local market. Continue reading

The diary of a Slow Traveller – Markets

One Love of slow travel is being able to frequent the local market.  That means not just a walk through the local market as you take in the sights but the opportunity to visit and revisit a market that overtime becomes your local.

Ortigia Market from the Temple of Apollo

Ortigia Market from the Temple of Apollo

Our time in Sicily gave us the chance to visit the Origia Market on an almost daily basis for nearly 7 weeks. The market is nestled between the Temple of Apollo and the sea. By  the Temple of Apollo  vendors have stalls selling ceramics, belts and clothes and then a turn to the left and you have a wonderful choice of fruit, vegetables, bread, fish, meat and cheeses.

Fish & produce

Day One purchases

Day One purchases

On Day One there was no doubt we were  “ripped off”. Continue reading

Setting sail for my next challenge

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It’s now nearly three weeks since I checked my email after waking early to see that I had received my results for my Honours. It was a genuine feeling of pleasure and exhilaration to see that I’d achieved my goal of First Class Honours. It seemed surreal to have received my result in Florence, where so many scholarly activities had taken place.

Basilica - Duomo Florence

Basilica – Duomo Florence

Most importantly achieving the grade level made entry into the PhD program at my preferred institution highly likely. In the following days as we continued to enjoy the amazing sights of Florence, I waited somewhat anxiously to hear about my scholarship application.

Much to my delight an offer arrived.

This post is not, however about my receiving the offer that I’d wanted or to show-off about my results. That said I’m pretty chuffed. This post is actually about setting sail for the next challenge.

“What’s Next” is truly before me now.

Working Identity - the most important book I have ever read

Working Identity – the most important book I have ever read

As I considered “What’s Next” nearly three years ago, I realised that I wanted to do something different. At that stage I wasn’t quite sure what that would be. In my mid-fifties I knew it was not going to be time to sit in a comfy chair with my feet up. I also knew that I was not going to leave my firm to continue in a similar vein, Continue reading

“So this is Christmas” – Christmas 2015 – Siracusa, Sicily

We weren’t sure what Christmas in Siracusa would be like.

What had been apparent in the run upto Christmas was a lack of Christmas cheer on the streets. There were no people singing carols in the streets, no Salvation Army bands, no Christmas music blaring into the streets from the shops. Only Zara seemed to be in the spirit with Spice Girls Christmas songs playing in their store.

There were Christmas decorations in the streets and houses but not the elaborate light displays we’d become used to at home. What we did see were poinsettias everywhere.

Presents under our tree

Presents under our tree

I found the lack of Christmas spirit a little surprising. Perhaps it was because unlike Australia, Christmas in Europe falls in the winter and is not the centre piece of the Summer holiday period.

That said, we approached Christmas Eve as we always have with a visit to the market. This time it wasn’t the fabulous Adelaide Central Market but the market in Ortigia, Siracusa.

Market Ortigia viewed from the Temple of Apollo

Market Ortigia viewed from the Temple of Apollo

The market is one of Siracusa’s highlights. Whether it’s freshly caught fish, fresh and usual local fruit and vegetables, bread, cheeses, meats or olives, it’s all there in a delightful little street by the sea. It was very busy with people stocking up for Christmas. We did pass on the sea urchins!

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The market has all you need if you intend to eat in, rather than visit one of the numerous trattorias, enoteccas or restaurants. We spent Christmas Eve at home which we understand is very typical of the locals.

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Just as our Christmas Days at home have been, our day started slowly with Panettone. It Is normally our chance to catch up with our children before they head off to their other events. Although there were only three of us this year, we didn’t miss the opportunity in Italy – coffee, panettone, nutella and mascarpone.

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A walk around Ortigia before lunch provided an opportunity to take in what finally seemed to be the Christmas spirit. The shops were closed but there were many bars open where families congregated for coffee. There were also the usual market stalls around the Temple of Apollo selling clothes, ceramics, mobile phone covers (I’m not sure what the fascination with mobile phone covers in Italy is?)etc. We walked upto the Duomo where a Christmas service was underway. We stayed for a short time.

Our lunch was at The Grand Hotel Ortigia. We picked this location as we had stayed there in 2008. It was an excellent choice. Local food and wines with excellent service. The restaurant had a mix of tourists such as the theee of us and locals. Situated on the roof of the hotel we had panoramic views of the harbiur making for a very pleasant way to spend Christmas lunch.

Quite possibly the largest panettone in the world!

Quite possibly the largest panettone in the world!

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As it seems with Christmas Dinner across the world we rolled out of The Grand Ortigia late in the afternoon, wondering if we would ever need to eat again!

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Post title took inspiration from the opening line from John Lennon’s Happy Christmas (War is Over)Earworm