I recently posted  about three cities that you must visit. One of  those was Naples, and as I was searching for links to my posts on these three wonderful but under-rated cities, I realised that I hadn’t completed this post.  So, I dusted the cobwebs off and moved this post from my Drafts to Posted.

As we extended and then extended again our stay in Naples we were able to move from a concerted attack on the highlights of Naples,

the Duomo, Gran Caffe Gambrinus, the Archeological Museum with its amazing  Pompeii exhibition that includes a very naughty  exhibit of ancient pornography (yes we did take a Peak!) and start to  look further afield.

Sitting on our hotel balcony in Piazza Bellini, making some calls to home, we could see a castle and wondered what it was called. Perhaps we should pay a visit? Once we found that it’s name was Castel Sant’Elmo we decided we had to visit. How could you not visit a place called Elmo?

Castel Sant’Elmo is located in  Vomerio a suburb of Naples, that is home to the wealthy. It is quite different to the bustling downtown of Naples offering a much more relaxed pace and  panoramic views of the city and port, particularly from Castel Sant’ Elmo. From our hotel it was a short walk to Funicolare Centrale , where a short up hill ride in the funicular would take us  to Vomerio.

Armed with directions from the hotel’s as always helpful staff, it all seemed pretty straight forward, but as we were becoming accustomed the signs don’t always tell the true story. There was a sign that pointed to the finuncular but it was only correct to a point. It directed us correctly off Via Toledo but not really in the direction of the station. After we consulted the map or more particularly my favourite person consulted the map (I have absolutely no sense of direction at all) we were on our way again through the back streets and onto another road that would apparently take us to the finuncular.

After a couple more wrong turns we arrived at the finuncular station and the hunt for tickets began. The signs were once again confusing. We went to what we thought was the ticket window but that was for the Metro and a rather grumpy lady pointed at the tobacconist where apparently we could buy tickets. With tickets in hand, the next challenge was where to find the entrance – that wasn’t easy either – but we did find it and we were on our way.

As we were becoming accustomed the signs were just as confusing once we arrived in  Vomeria. Consulting the map we found Castel Sant’Elmo. Our Arte Card got us free admittance but where was the entrance?

After finding the entrance,the challenge was to engage the attendant who was completely disinterested. It was a Sunday, I wonder if she was still getting over Saturday night? Once past the “gate-keeper” and after finding a couple of dead ends, we along with another couple of equally confused tourists stumbled on the lift to take us upto the castle wall and panoramic views of Naples in all directions.

The castle dates back to the 13th century and was originally referred to as Castrum Sancti Erasmi, as it housed a chapel dedicated to Sant’Erasmo. It was  during the Spanish Viceroy period that its name became Castel Sant’Elmo. It’s just enormous and dominates from its hill top position overlooking Naples.

After taking in the views,  it was off to Cerrosa e Museo di San Martino, a former monestry that is now a museum containing Spanish and Bourbon artifacts. A highlight of the displays are the prespe – nativity scenes.  It was late January so it didn’t seem out of place but might have if we’d visited in July?

 

Our Arte Card apparently provided free entrance – according to another completely disinterested attendant but it didn’t and required a payment of 50% of the fee. That was fine as we’d been to other places where we expected to pay 50% and got in with the card. Of course there was no map so we along with the others had to find our way around.

 

Satisfied with what we’d seen we walked the back to the finuncular.

As we walked back to the funicular,  through the quiet suburban streets all of a sudden there was a roar and car horns started to sound – Napoli had scored! I understood, completely, it was just like being back in Adelaide when my beloved Crows were playing.

Vomerio doesn’t appear on many people’s list of places to visit but it is worth it, even if it’s only to take in the views.

So what is a funicular? It is a type of railway which goes up hill. It is operated by cable with each car counter balanced by one going in the other direction. It originates from the 15th century.